A journey through the Souk of Aleppo

16 Jan

In August 2025, I visited Aleppo with my good friend and collaborator Harry Johnstone to work on a story about the restoration of Aleppo’s ancient souk and how these efforts are working to breath new economic life into this shattered city. Large swathes of Aleppo were destroyed during Syria’s near 14 year civil war as well as by the 2023 earthquakes.

The area in and around the souk and citadel experienced intense fighting and the impact is only too obvious to see. Whole streets and courtyards reduced to rubble. Buildings scarred by thousands of bullet holes and shrapnel marks. A ravaged and exhausted populace.

But some green shoots are visible. Parts of the souk have been restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture among others in an effort to restore the souk to its former glory and offer an economic lifeline to its storied shopkeepers. While some have returned, the souk is a far cry from its pre-war heyday when, according to one shopkeeper, it was so full that people would have to squeeze past each other and it would take an hour to walk a few hundred metres. Back then, we were told, shopkeepers would sell half the products by midday. Now it takes months to sell the same amount.

Dating back to the 12th century, most of the current structures were built during the Mamluk and Ottoman periods (14th-16th centuries). The souk was a major centre of Silk Road trade where you could find goods like Persian silks, Indian spices and the famous Aleppian soap which is still being produced at scale today (more details below). European merchants established consulates and warehouses nearby due to its importance. Indeed, there are several buildings connected to the Marcopoli family touching distance from the souk. At 13km in length, it is the longest covered market in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The hope is that if Syria can stabilise politically and economically, wealthy Syrians will return to the country as will tourists and the souk will breathe life into Aleppo once again.

The following photos and videos show areas of the souk which have been destroyed; areas that are under restoration and have been restored; shops and street life; the Jebeli soap factory (one of Aleppo’s largest); the hammam and some of the culinary treats available. I hope you enjoy this journey through Aleppo’s souk.

If you would like to read Harry Johnstone’s evocative article about the souk, you can find it here.

Destruction

After nearly 14 years of civil war and following the powerful 2023 earthquake that hit Turkey and Syria, the souk in Aleppo has experienced widespread destruction. Some sections are charred and burnt, others are battered and only just remain standing and all that remains of other sections are piles of rubble. During the devastating conflict in Syria, opposition fighters hit in the labyrinthine streets of the souk. The military bombed the area indiscriminately in an attempt to wipe them out. In the process, large swathes of Aleppian mercantile history was lost forever.

The scene coming out of one of the main entrance’s of the souk

Destruction to the souk caused by war and the 2023 earthquake

An aerial view of the souk area. Destruction resulting from the civil war can be seen in the foreground and in the centre of the image. Sections of the souk restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture can be seen to the left of the mosque.

Destruction in areas adjacent to the souk

Destruction to the souk caused by war and the 2023 earthquake. The Citadel can be seen in the background

Destruction to the souk caused by war and the 2023 earthquake

Bullet and shrapnel marks are clearly visible on this facade

During the war, bombs were dropped by the government on resistance fighters hiding in the souk destroying large parts of it

Decorative surfaces

Slowly the rubble is being collected and organised, some can be reused as part of the reconstruction

A flyover from the Citadel showing some of the destroyed areas of the souk and, towards the end, some restored areas

Restoration

In spite of the widespread destruction, Aleppo’s souk is slowly being restored. Restoration experts from the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) working alongside skilled craftsmen and women, are bringing the souk back from the brink. AKTC have completed the restoration of eight key sections of the souk since 2018. This has resulted in 277 shops being retuned to their owners and the rehabilitation of over 500 metres of passageways covering a 5,480 m² area. In the souk area, AKTC have also implemented the emergency stabilisation of six historic monuments following the 2023 earthquakes with the support of the ALIPH Foundation.

A master craftsman at work in an area damaged during Syria's civil war and then subsequently by the 2023 earthquake. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture are working to return the souk to its former glory.

A portrait of the master craftsman

Before and after images of a restored ceiling.

A photograph of that restored area

Stonemason Ali Hamedi is working on the restoration of a series of arches in the Khan El-Sabun (Khan of the Soap). “The old city is fascinating. Everything has a soul. It is alive. Through this work, I'm connecting with the masons of the past.”

A series of arches being restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in the Khan El-Sabun (Khan of the Soap). The plan is to restore the whole Khan by 2027.

Ali Hamedi at work in the Khan El-Sabun (Khan of the Soap)

“Through this work, I am connecting with the masons of the past.”

Ali Hamedi, stonemason

An aerial view of the Great Mosque of Aleppo. Destruction of the souk can be seen in the foreground. Sections of the souk restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture can be seen in the centre and left hand side; the whiter parts.

An aerial view of the Great Mosque of Aleppo. Destruction of the souk can be seen on the right hand side and sections that have been restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture can be seen on the left hand side; the whiter parts.

Shops and street life

Much like a modern department store, Aleppo’s souk has different sections for different products. There’s a street that just sells rope, a section for spices, for soap, for antiques, for sweet treats and more.

Protected from the sun by thick walls and vaulted ceilings, the labyrinthine souk is cool and a gentle breeze flows along it. Whilst the hubbub of bartering and trade is a far cry from the souk’s pre-war heyday, its covered streets still hum with the rhythms of daily exchange. Every so often you can hear the clink-clink of the erk sous (liquorice juice) seller knocking his brass plates together in an effort to drum up sales.

The hope is that, in the years to come, shopkeepers will return and that, like blood that flows through veins, economic life will course through the vaulted streets of Aleppo’s souk once again.

A section of the souk dedicated to selling rope. Restoration works were carried out y the Aga Khan Trust for Culture

A restored section of the souk

A shopkeeper selling a variety of spices

A shopkeeper selling antiques and bric a brac

A part of the souk restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture

“There is positive energy in the souk. Every day it feels better to be here. I feel I belong in this place.”

Rah Houri, shopkeeper

An erk sous (liquorice drink) seller in a restored section of the souk

Rahaf Houri, recently opened a shop in a restored section of the souk selling decorative calligraphy, gifts, tiling and soap. “During the war, it was a very hard period,” she says. “A sniper shot my brother. It was a very bad time. There were no jobs, no work. I had a lot of stress, psychological pressure, and anxiety. Most of my life was during the war. I don’t have much memory of the time before it. There is positive energy in the souk. Every day it feels better to be here. I feel I belong in this place. I hope to see more people from around the world visiting this souk.”

A shoe maker in his workshop

A shoe making workshop

A tableau of Aleppian souk life

Youssef Mohammed Shaami has worked in the souk since 1979. His father worked in this shop before him. He sells washing products for use in the hammam and at home, made from hemp imported from Kenya. “When I was here with my father, it was a big market, with 56 souks and khans. I could find anything I wanted: meat, nuts, vegetables, clothes, fabrics, textiles, jewellery. In the afternoon, everyone would eat together. The shopkeepers had special relationships with each other, one person’s daughter would marry another’s son. It was like one family. Every week there was a wedding or a party. Sometimes we would have a big meal and everyone would eat together along the street. Before the war, we had a lot of work, everyone was happy. From 6 am to 12 pm I would sell half the products in my shop; enough to support three families. Now it takes a whole year to sell half the products in my shop.” He had only sold one product so far this day. “My soul is in this place. Even if I don’t sell anything, I will keep coming.”

“My soul is in this place. Even if I don’t sell anything, I will keep coming.”

Youssef Mohammed Shaami, shopkeeper

The 15th century Mamluk-era Al-Saffahiyah Mosque

This enterprising young man and his mobile hair salon

A restored section of the souk

Early in the morning a man takes a walk through the souk

An original and intact section

Shopkeepers take a break and have a laugh

Mohammed Aqad’s family has been selling wares in the souk for over 200 years. His father and grandfather were in the same shop. His great grandfather was there too “When I was a boy all the shops would sell spices cumin, cinnamon, black pepper, white pepper, also pistachios, chestnuts, desiccated coconut. It was full of life. If another shopkeeper didn't sell any goods, I would direct customers to them. There were Muslims, Christians and Jews. We loved each other like brothers. We were like one family.”

“There were Muslims, Christians and Jews. We loved each other like brothers. We were like one family.”

Mohammed Aqad, shopkeeper

Thick walls protect the souk from Syria’s scorching hot summers

A man pauses to use his phone framed by a doorway employing ablaq; an architectural technique involving alternating rows of light and dark stone

A shoe making workshop

Ablaq became a prominent feature of Mamluk architecture in Syria, Egypt and Palestine in the 14th and 15th centuries

Due to dire economic circumstances, for many families, young children work to keep the family afloat

In the cool vaults of the souk, men play backgammon

Jebeli Soap making factory

Aleppo is considered to be the place where soap first originated about 2,000 years ago. Aleppian soap is still made using a traditional recipe of olive oil, laurel berry oil, water, and lye, known for its natural, moisturising properties.

Nestled in the souk is the family run Jebeli soap factory, one of the city’s largest soap factories. Before the war, Jebeli produced a minimum of 150 tons each year which was exported all over the world. Today, the company produces only 25 tons of soap per annum.

Jebeli soap is made using a traditional recipe of olive oil, laurel berry oil, water, and lye

One of several cavernous vaults where Jebeli soap is made and stored before being sold. The stock on this warehouse is worth around $250,000.

“In our culture, after a long week of work, everyone should buy a new bar of soap and clean themselves properly,” Abdullah Qudemati, Manager of Jebeli Soap

Soap stock at Jebeli’s soap factory

Towers of soap maturing at the factory

“In our culture, after a long week of work, everyone should buy a new soap and clean themselves properly.”

Abdullah Qudemati, Manager of Jebeli Soap.

When soap is being made, the whole floor of the factory is covered with a special type of paper and the soap is poured on top. When it sets, it is cut into pieces using this tool.

The soap is also stamped with this tool. Buyers can request customised stamps.

The Hammam

Through an innocuous doorway down one of the souks many corridors, and down a set of stairs, Aleppo’s Hammam al-Nahhasin opens up before you. It is one of the oldest and largest public baths in Aleppo.

Commissioned in the 12th century, it features distinct sections for warm and hot bathing, massage, and relaxation, with a specific section, Hammam as-Sitt, for women. Many Aleppians still use the hammam to wash and as a place to socialise just as their forebears have for centuries.

After, or before, visiting the hammam, patrons can drink tea, smoke a shisha and order a meal.

Here the hammam integrates ancient basis with more modern tiling

Islamic geometric designs and mosaics decorate the hammam

Some of the basis are made from repurposed column capitals

The hammam’s main plunge pool

Food and drink

From aromatic coffee infused with cardamom to fresh fruit and vegetables, and an abundance of spices, nuts and sweet treats, the food and drink on offer in Aleppo’s souk offers both an exquisite culinary experience and a journey through time.

A higos chumbos (prickly pear) / Al-Tin Ash-Shawkî seller

A peeled and ready to eat higos chumbos (prickly pear) / Al-Tin Ash-Shawkî fruit

A man cleaning walnuts

A woman buying pastries

Sweet pastries for sale

Knafeh, a traditional Middle Eastern dessert known for its contrast of a crispy, golden pastry crust, a gooey cheese or cream filling, and a sweet, fragrant syrup

Pistacchio dusted baklava

Ammad Qaynouz, an engineer that sometimes works in his father’s spice shop. The shop was restored as part of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture’s restoration work in 2023. “I like the new version of the souk,” he says. “It is better than before. It has become more beautiful. Life is coming back to the souk, but slowly. If the next door souk is restored, many more people will come, because it leads to the Citadel. I think the souk will return as it was before. And better. This souk holds a lot of memories for Aleppian people because their father’s shops and homes were in this city.” Ammad’s father opened the shop in 1960. The shop sells medicinal herbs and spices for cooking like red tea, dried lemon, meramizeh (wild flower), dried black lemon, white pepper, sumac and more (see below images). He offers us crystal-like chunks of white sugar. “When you eat these blocks of sugar,” he says, “your voice becomes more beautiful.”